Basket Construction Tips
Maybe 1 tip will make your
weaving easier and more fun.
Design:
To determine the spoke length for designing you own
basket, take the base measurement plus the height measurement times 2 for
each side of the basket and add 4 or 5 inches for length to tuck. Use this
same formula for horizontal and vertical spoke lengths.
Try using Oval/Oval (oval on both sides) reed for the
ribs in ribbed egg and market baskets.
Bases:
To easily identify horizontal spokes from vertical
spokes, cut the ends of the horizontal spokes straight across and the ends
of the vertical spokes at an angle.
To square a base, measure your basket base from upper
left hand corner to lower right hand corner and then from lower left hand
corner to upper right corner. These measurements should be the same.
To hold flat reed spokes for a round base use an old
ceiling tile, cork board tile or cutting board beneath the spokes and use a
T-pin in the center of the spokes to hold it tight.
When flat reed spokes are too loose when placing them in
a wood base, shave flat toothpicks or round reed scraps to form a wedge. Use
the wedge to hold the stake in place on the inside of the basket. The wedge
can be broken off flush with the base so that it is hidden. Another method
is to use a length of well soaked round reed that can be wedged into the
base grove on the inside to hold the spokes in place. The round reed should
be pushed into the groove so that it can not be seen.
Use a plastic bowl as a mold or to assist in shaping.
When making a basket with a wood base, drill 4 holes equally spaced and
centered at the bottom of the bowl. Thread wax linen through holes and
across wood base to fasten the base to the outside of the bowl. Insert
spokes and weave basket.
Upsetting Spokes:
For spokes that crack when upsetting, use an emery board
to file the rough crack down. This will not weaken the basket.
Use pliers with a narrow needle nose to crimp spokes
before upsetting the base or before tucking spokes for rimming. This will
help form the clean bend in the spoke and prevent the spoke from cracking.
Weaving:
To make corners, clothespin one spoke on each side of the
corner together for the first couple rows of weaving. If you want a cat head
shape, clothespin two spokes on each side of the corner.
To hold the starting end of a weaver in place, weave a
short scrap above the first 4 starting spokes. Remove the scrap when ending
the weave row. This is usually helpful for starting the first couple of
rows.
To fold round reed in half without breaking it, crimp the
reed with needle nose pliers before you fold and start twining. Also, you
can pinch reed at the corners on the first row to make nice tight corners.
Remember to stop and look at your basket for correct
shaping. For baskets with straight sides the spokes need to remain equal
distance apart – including at the corners.
When you start sides of a round reed basket, make sure
the base is turned so that you are weaving to the right if you are right
handed --- Or to the left if you are left handed. It is hard to maintain a
nice even shape if you are weaving the wrong direction. To control the shape
of your basket if you are right handed, watch what your LEFT hand is doing.
Your right hand knows the technique; your left hand controls the curve of
the basket.
To untwist round reed when you are twining or triple
weaving, hold the weavers in your hand and take one weaver and pull it up
out of the rest. This is an easy way to untangle.
When using ¼” or 3/8” flat oval reed as weavers, shave
down the very beginning where your weaver will overlap to eliminate bulk.
For twill Baskets, use smooth and supple reed for
weavers.
Start tapering a weaver from the end and gradually taper
for 6” to 8” to the edge of the weaver. Scissors with long cutting blades
are handy for making long straight cuts. Taper on the underside of the
weaver so the cut edge will face the bottom of your basket. The cut edge
(especially on dyed weavers) is less visible on the down side.
For baskets with straight walls, keep the spokes upright
and parallel (same distance apart all the way to the top) - including at the
corners. To make a basket larger at the top, the spokes need to spread
gradually apart and the spread needs to be at the equal distance on each
row. To make the basket smaller gently push spokes toward the center as you
weave each row.
Cane is directional. Cane will have a tendency to snag
and break when pulled in the wrong direction. Run your fingernail across a
joint or nodule to determine the smooth direction for weaving and lashing.
Pack rows as you weave. Reed and other wood weavers will
shrink when dry. Allow your basket to thoroughly dry and pack again before
you cut and tuck spokes.
Cut and Tuck:
Cut the corner points off of the tucking spoke will help
tuck spokes. Do not cut spokes to a point as the reed will have a tendency
to split.
For those who are easily distracted -- Before cutting
spokes for rimming, try bending the spokes to be tucked over the rim filler
row and to the inside of the basket. Then, cut the standing un-folded spokes
flush with the rim filler row.
Rims:
Always put on the INSIDE rim first. Then the outside rim
goes to the right of the inside splice just a little. That way the bulk
works out at the same place. Don’t overlap the splices.
Rims can be held in place with spring clamps, clothes
pins or cable ties to secure the rim for lashing. Allow the basket to dry
thoroughly and make any adjustments to the rim’s fit before lashing.
When learning the Gretchen border, try alternate dyed and
natural spoke to give a striped effect to the border. If you get confused
and need to go re-check the border you should have two dyed and two natural
reeds sticking out from the basket when you have completed each round. It
also helps to mark the beginning three spokes before you begin a row with a
pipe cleaner so you will know when you have reached the end. The pipe
cleaners can be gently pulled outward for placement of the ending row
spokes.
Lashing:
Use a small amount of electrical tape and wrap it once
around the pulling end of you lasing material. Cut for 1 inch on a 45 degree
angle and lash your rim. The tape on the reed prevents it from splitting
while you lash.
To determine the length needed for a lasher, take the
lashing material and wind it around the basket at least 2 ½ times for a
single lash or 5 times around for an X lash. Add a few inches for trimming
frayed ends. Note: Longer lengths are needed for twills, Nantucket’s or
baskets with a lot of spokes that are close together.
To determine the length needed to wrap a handle, measure
the lashing material at least 6 times the length of the handle. Add a few
inches for trimming frayed ends.
Keeping your hands wet while lashing prevents the reed
from drying out too fast from the body heat in your hands.
Borders:
Keep your left over bits of #2 and #3 round reed to add
braided borders to splint baskets. Cut leftovers to 26” lengths and store
them. Then a braided border is needed, count out the amount needed.